If your TRC-1000 has no power at all. (The lighted power switch does not light and there is no messages showing on the LCD), then the first place to check is the main power entry module's fuse. The most likely reason for this fuse to blow, is a short around the heating element or terminal block of the cutting machine itself. Check for bare wires from the heater cord to the terminal block. Also check that the heating element wires are not rubbing against the side plate and check the wires where they enter the heating element itself. Look for dry cracked insulation, bare spots, and black burnt spots on the wires. The heating element could also be internally shorted and testing with an ohm meter will have to be done. The heating element should read about 30 ohms.
On the back of the control panel, along with the heater cord receptacle, is the Fused power Entry Module. The bottom half of the module is where the main power fuse is located.
Using a small flat blade screwdriver in the notch of the receptacle, pry out on the drawer, to slide it out of the receptacle.
The drawer slides out as shown.
Inspect the inside of the receptacle where the contacts are for any melting that might have occured during the fuse blow. In extreme situations the drawer may have become melted to the receptacle.
To remove the white fuse carrier from the drawer, lift up on the clip in the middle of the drawer and slide the carrier out.
Replace the fuse with an AGC-8. (8 amp fast acting fuse) These should be available at most auto parts stores or your local Radio Shack. Our part number is CP-17 if you can't locate them locally. Re-assemble in reverse order.
Make sure that the clips are tight against the fuse ends. Before putting in a new fuse, squeeze them together to give a good tight fit.
Some older models of our cutters used a receptacle with two fuses. If yours has two, usually only one of them blows, so you will have to check them with on ohm meter or continuity tester.